Il Cheese it is one of the symbols of Apulian gastronomy. This round-shaped cheese probably owes its name to the custom of hanging the fresh cheeses, tied in pairs, astride a beam to let them age.
On the Gargano the “Caciocavallo Podolico“, that particular variety of caciocavallo produced exclusively with the milk of Podolica breed cows, which arrived in Italy around 450 AD
La Podolian race has an exceptional power of adaptation to harsh environments, and today it is bred purely in the wild or semi-wild, a feature that allows its milk to have unique properties that make it perfect for the production of caciocavallo: thanks to the freedom of movement, the cows are able to feed on a great variety of wild herbs such as rocket and rosemary which give the milk first, and then the cheese, peculiar organoleptic properties. Furthermore, the smaller quantity of milk produced daily by Podolica cows compared to cows from intensive farms determines a peculiar flavour since the aromas are more concentrated.
The caciocavallo podolico is seasoned up to 36 months, traditionally in caves: the seasoning gives it a very strong flavour, while when fresh it is much more delicate.
Handcrafted according to ancient traditions, it is, together with cacioricotta, one of the symbols of the Gargano, closely linked to its cultural and food identity.
The traditional recipe involves heating the cow's milk up to a temperature of about 37 degrees, then the coagulation phase takes place thanks to the addition of calf rennet. After 30 minutes the curd is broken into many tiny pieces in order to facilitate the loss of whey. This is extracted by bringing the curd to temperatures of 60 degrees for 3 or 4 consecutive times. At this point the curd is modeled in the shape of the caciocavallo and immersed in brine for 2 days. Subsequently it is important that the seasoning takes place in the damp of cellars or caves.
Some traditional processes also involve smoking, which occurs with aromatic wood when the curd becomes quacquio.
Once ready, the cheese takes on an intense golden yellow color, the result of the transformation of chlorophyll during the maturation of the calcium paracaseinate, and has a dense consistency and a flavor between sweet and spicy depending on the degree of maturation.
Excellent as an appetizer, melted on bread or grilled accompanied by full-bodied red wines.
Picture of Lume di Candela restaurant
In addition to the "Caciocavallo Podolico" a variety called "Caciocavallo Garganico" is produced, with milk from crossbred cattle breeds, but with characteristics very similar to the variant produced exclusively with milk from Podolian cows.
The link between Gargano and the cheese-making tradition is demonstrated to us by the philosopher and naturalist Father Michelangelo Manicone, prophet of sustainable development who in his “physics appulate” of 1806 focuses on the caciocavalli of the Gargano, especially those of Arigna (Rignano Gargano):
As regards the dairy products of the Gargano, they are the best in the Province. The caciocavallos are excellent; but those of Arignano have a singular taste. I ask: is the improvement of the caciocavallos of Arignano due to the excellent pasture of the cows, or to the expert hand of the farmer? Let us examine this article, which interests humanity. Physics has proven that the quality of the grass greatly influences the quality of the milk. In fact, the nature of the nourishment of the animals, in part unchanged, is preserved in the milk, from which the milk is immediately formed, with which milk has the greatest affinity in nature and principles. Given such a truth, also proven by innumerable facts reported by the greatest of botanists, it seems that the exquisiteness of the caciocavallos of Arignano is due to the excellent pastures; growing in the territory of this land are wild thyme, thyme, mountain rose, lemon balm, and many other healthy, nutritious and valuable herbs for livestock.
The symbolic value of Caciocavallo Podolico
In addition to its extraordinary taste, Caciocavallo Podolico carries with it a great symbolic and social value.
In ancient times it was used by farmers as a currency to pay land rent, and the wealthiest families used to buy enormous forms as a symbol of opulence.
The Caviocavallo was also a gift of esteem and gratitude: two were given to those who had shown merit and correctness, as a sign of respect and gratitude.
In the rural world of Gargano, it represented a gesture of great hospitality: in the farms it was offered to wayfarers, together with bread, as a sign of sharing. From here also comes the term companion, from the Latin companio -onis, comp. of cum «together with» and panis «bread», or the one with whom you eat bread… and caciocavallo.
Caciocavallo in the Kitchen
Caciocavallo Podolico from Puglia is a very versatile cheese in the kitchen, ideal for being cut into slices and served as an appetizer or aperitif, grilled in terrines or melted directly on bread accompanied by red wines from Puglia.
This cheese is also suitable for grating on pasta and soups as well as becoming an excellent filling for pizzas e paposce.
